Cauliflower

Tender, small cauliflower may be broken into flowerets and cooked gently in butter until done, tossing regularly, but very often the larger cauliflower is too strong in flavor to permit this treatment. Parboiling attenuates the taste, but few people realize how little cooking is required—usually, if it has been broken into flowerets, simmering for 5 minutes is enough. A couple of minutes more and it is transformed into an unpleasant mush. Parboiled but kept slightly firm, well drained, flowerets sautéed in a generous quantity of butter over a brisk flame until well colored, a handful of chopped parsley tossed in a couple of minutes before removing from the heat, are delicious as a garnish for roast or grilled meats. Whole cauliflower steamed (about 20 minutes—kept slightly firm also) afford a very pretty gratin, first coated with béchamel and sprinkled with cheese on top.