Veal

Veal sautés all follow the basic pattern outlined in the sauté recipe-type. The meat is not larded. Most are deglazed with white wine, which is almost completely reduced, lightly tomatoed, and moistened with veal stock. A veal Marengo hardly differs from the Milanese osso-bucco except that the sauce of the former is sieved; the bones are missing, as is the genial gremolata (garlic persillade mixed with grated lemon and orange peel) and the wonderful risotto accompaniment (Piedmont rice, which, by nature, is gummier than others, cooked in a suggestion of olive oil like a pilaf, onion and saffron flavored, moistened first with white wine and, as the liquid is absorbed, repeatedly remoistened with veal stock or water, stirred well after each moistening to enhance the natural gumminess, and, finally, stirred up with grated cheese and butter—a revelation in sticky sensuosity). Both, however, are deglazed with white wine and moistened uniquely with tomato—or, at the most, a bit of veal stock added as a symbolic gesture. A veal matelotte is moistened with about 2 parts of red wine to 1 of veal stock or water and garnished with the Bourguignon little onions, sautéed mushrooms, and browned salt pork lardons; calves’ lungs may be prepared in exactly the same way (they should be beaten first to rid them of their air) and are delicious—the sauce, in either instance, should be cooked apart, skimmed, and reduced for a good ½ hour after the meats are done.