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Calf’s Liver

Foie de Veau

Appears in

By Richard Olney

Published 1974

  • About

On the French market, one finds foie de veau and another mysterious and darker-colored liver baptized foie de génisse (literally “heifer’s liver”). The butchers carry no other products claiming to derive from the heifer. In parts of the United States, similarly obfuscatory methods are deployed to confuse the public, calf’s liver and so-called veal liver being differently colored and differently priced.

Sublime calf’s liver is pale beige with a pink cast. Livers of a well-sustained rose hue may, nonetheless, be very good. The tightly clinging sheer surface membrane must be carefully peeled off; it shrinks in contact with heat, warping or otherwise deforming the liver.

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