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Canned Coconut Milk
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By Robert Danhi
Published 2008
When not in Southeast Asia, I usually use canned coconut milk. I’m very selective about the brands I use, and I use it in ways that give results that are as close to fresh as possible. Large manufacturers sell very different versions under the same brand name. Characteristics vary widely. I recommend only three brands that consistently have the best overall flavor: Chaokoh, Mae Ploy, and 1AF (this newcomer to the market has proven itself worthy of inclusion in my recipes).
Heat thick coconut milk over medium heat, stirring often. The water will evaporate slowly. A roasted flavor will develop from the browning of the milk solids at the bottom of the pan. Continue cooking until the coconut fat begins to separate from the creamy milk. It is this semibroken mixture that is used to roast the curry paste when making authentic Thai curry dishes. Only frying in this medium will bring out the full aromatic quality of the spice paste. This critical stage is what gives some Thai curries puddles of fat in the sauce (in this case, a desirable trait). Look to the Thai chapter for more on coconut milk usage in Thai curries.