Italy

Italy has been a nation only since 1861, when only a small minority spoke the common language. French chefs are proud that French classic cooking is consistent around the world, but Italian cooks emphasize the individuality of each of their dishes. The diversity of Italy’s regions is still apparent today, with each tiny province making its own contribution. Waverley Root, in his book The Food of Italy, tried to give some order to Italian cooking by grouping regions according to the major ancient influences—Etruscan, Greek, and Saracen. Each of these ancient groups had an important influence on modern Italian cooking. The Etruscans were fond of a kind of porridge that evolved into today’s polenta; the Greeks contributed the first fish soups to the Italian peninsula; the Saracens contributed rice, tarragon, exotic fruits, and spices that had been used under Roman rule but were lost and forgotten once the empire crumbled. But what Italian soups do have in common is the quality of the ingredients. Italians insist on impeccably fresh ingredients and shop at least once a day for the best vegetables, meats, and seafood.