Appears in
Splendid Soups

By James Peterson

Published 2000

  • About

Although Korean cooking is similar in many ways to Chinese and Japanese cuisine, it uses its own distinctive ingredients. Unlike Southeast Asian cooks, who rely on fish sauce as an almost universal flavoring and condiment, Koreans, like the Chinese and Japanese, use soy sauce as their basic seasoning. Also like the Japanese, Koreans are fond of fermented soybean sauce. Whereas Japanese miso is relatively mild, the Korean version—twoenjang—has a gamier, more assertive aroma and flavor. Even though Japanese miso is an acceptable substitute for twoenjang, you’ll never capture the distinctive flavor of Korean cooking without it. If you live outside a major city, you’ll have to order twoenjang by mail, but fortunately, once you have it on hand, it keeps in the refrigerator for up to a year.