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Splendid Soups

By James Peterson

Published 2000

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Although Vietnam has a distinct and lovely cuisine of its own, many of the basic flavors are the same as those used in Thailand.

Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc mam) has a stronger flavor than Thai fish sauce, but since authentic Vietnamese fish sauce cannot be imported into the United States, everyone uses the Thai version anyway. Look for a brand labeled “Phu Quoc” (an island off the coast of Vietnam once famous for its fish sauce). The term is now used simply to mean best quality. The best brand I’ve found is Flying Lion. Lemongrass and lime leaves are used in the same way as in Thai cooking, but Vietnamese cooks make more liberal use of mint and Asian “holy” basil—usually coarsely chopped and added to soups just before serving.

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