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By Caroline Conran

Published 2012

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Olives shiny black and matt green, large and tiny, fresh and pickled or done in a variety of strongly flavoured marinades of hot paprika, spices, chilli and herbs, garlic and even aïoli – perfume the air of the local markets. As a rule, the vendeuses are are stunningly beautiful girls, dressed as if going to perform in a Texan night club alongside Dolly Parton, and dressed in laced corsets and impossibly high heels.

Radishes are the easiest and most popular appetizers. The French Breakfast variety are long with a white tip and should be served chilled with crystals of salt and cold, unsalted butter.