Bar Pinotxo has been preparing a feast of tapas for its faithful clientele for 60 years. The stoves are now in the hands of Albert Asin, one of the five members of the Bayen family who squeeze in and out of the bar-kitchen in the heart of the Boquería market. Watching him work in his galley-kitchen is like watching a miracle in the making, as huge pans and woks are shifted around the stove in clouds of steam, with earthenware dishes piled above and ingredients somehow squeezed in below, all just inches away from waiting customers.