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By Steven Raichlen

Published 1998

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The primal seasoning for barbecue; indeed it is the only seasoning for grilled beef in many countries, including Argentina and Brazil. Not all salts are created equal, however. My favorite seasoning is coarse sea salt. (The coarse texture keeps it from dissolving completely, so you get little bursts of salty flavor. Also, the minerals in sea salt add flavor. Besides, I like the way it feels between my fingers.) I also like kosher saltβ€”again for its coarse texture.

Sambal Ulek: A fiery red chile paste from Indonesia. Available at Asian markets, gourmet shops, and at an increasing number of supermarkets. Substitute Thai or Vietnamese chile paste or a spoonful of your favorite hot sauce.

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