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Published 1991
Look for firm full aubergines with smooth skins. Cooked whole, the flesh can then be scooped out for a smooth pâté, but normally aubergines are prepared in slices or dice. Classically, aubergines are degorged, meaning sprinkled with salt so the bitter juices drain out and the flesh firms slightly. This is especially useful when frying slices so they don’t absorb quite as much oil, and helps keep the texture soft. Degorging is not necessary for chopped aubergines being put straight into a stew.