Ham

China produces some of the best hams in the world, particularly those from Che-kiang and Yunnan provinces. They are similar in taste, texture, and color to Smithfield ham. Like dried shrimp, ham is an important seasoning in Chinese cooking.

Chinese meat markets in the United States sell Smithfield ham by the pound; most other meat markets sell only the entire ham. Since the meat is quite salty, it should be soaked and cooked as follows before you use it.

Get a 2-pound piece. Scrape and clean off the pepper coating and, soak the ham in cold water for an hour, then rinse well and simmer with water to cover for about 40 minutes. Trim off the fat; cut the meat with the grain into 2-inch-wide pieces. Place them in a large jar. Make a sugar solution by dissolving 4 tablespoons sugar in 2 cups boiling water. When cooled, pour over the ham, add 2 tablespoons dry sherry, screw on the cover, and refrigerate. The ham keeps indefinitely and is ready when you need it.