Five-Spice Powder

This is a variable mixture of five or seven spices, which typically include star anise, fennel, Szechwan peppercorns, clove, and cinnamon, all ground to powder ranging in color from tan to brown or amber. There seem to be two general types on the market: the first that is finely ground, highly aromatic, and well balanced in smell and taste, and a second that is coarser, darker, and smells and tastes too strongly of cheap spice, much like a bad perfume. Even for the recipes in this book, where its use is an accent to only a small number of dishes, you should shop for the finer variety and judge it with your nose or your eye. Do not be concerned with packaging; the grimiest plastic packet on a Chinatown shelf frequently holds a treasure.