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Published 1986
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Dear as a bunch of violets, these greens arrive in the market in soft clusters, rosettes of downy leaves that perk up the spirit like spring rain. Of the tumble of fetching names that belong to this ancient salad, I find the French doucette (little sweet or tender one) the most charming and most suitable. What is currently touted here in our fanciest markets is the imported mache, which is more chic than corn salad to the ear (and pricier to the purse), but is the same plant. However, we should be grateful that an awareness of sophisticated European food, particularly French, has returned this once common leaf to the American table.
