Radicchio

Five years ago few in this country were familiar with the stunning red-leafed chicory that became the darling of American chefs, and later quietly part of the home cook’s domain. Probably no other vegetable has done as much to decorate, enliven, and refresh the American salad plate—and it tastes absolutely wonderful cooked, as well. When I first became aware of the bittersweet, satiny, crisp chicory, it cost $6 per half pound and was available only at the fanciest imported produce shops. This summer I bought it at a supermarket on Cape Cod for $2 per half pound (after having nobly—and foolishly—explained to the reluctant and stubborn checkout girl that it was not baby red cabbage, for which she would have charged 39 cents a pound).