Austria: Vine varieties

Given the huge number of grape varieties grown in Austria and how many are indigenous or at least little-known elsewhere, an overview is in order. Among whites, Grüner Veltliner—with roughly a 30% share of plantings nationwide—has become known as Austria’s national grape, even though its role in Burgenland is only modest and in Steiermark practically non-existent. Austrian wines from this grape—virtually always dry—capture an otherwise unprecedented range of flavours, including those of lentils, green beans, mange-tout, cress, rhubarb, beetroot, roasted red peppers, tobacco, white and black pepper, citrus zest, iris, and nutmeg. A tactile ‘bite’ or pleasantly sizzling peppery astringency—referred to by Austrians as Pfefferl—is often treated as a varietal signature. Arguably also without precedent is this grape’s ability to achieve satisfying ripeness and completeness at levels of potential alcohol ranging from as little as 10.5% to as much as 15%. Grüner Veltliner wines can reflect vineyard identity as well as mature impressively in bottle for decades. There can be enormous variation in size and colour of berry; size and shape of cluster; vine vigour; and wine flavour. The painstaking massal selection undertaken by the Wachau’s Franz Pichler in the mid 20th century has made possible today’s quality.