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Georgia: Viticulture and vine varieties

Appears in
Oxford Companion to Wine

By Jancis Robinson

Published 2006

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Vines in Georgia (unlike those in russia) do not need winter protection, and new vineyards are planted to grafted seedlings. Vineyards mostly use trellis systems and various training systems such as cordon, guyot, fan-shaped systems with numerous canes, Georgian systems with canes trained in one or two directions, and pergolas.

wild vines are widely distributed in Georgia, where Vitis vinifera subs. silvestris can still be seen. By both natural and artificial selection, they have given rise to more than 500 identifiable indigenous varieties and clones. Of the 37 authorized varieties, the two most widely planted are the indigenous rkatsiteli and saperavi. Although international varieties such as Aligoté, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot are permitted, around 95% of Georgian wine is made from indigenous varieties, including the light-skinned Chinuri, Goruli Mtsvane, Khikhvi, Kisi, Krakhuna, Mtsvane Kakhuri, Tsitska, and Tsolikouri; and the dark-skinned Aladasturi, Aleksandrouli, Ashughaji, Asuretuli Shavi, Chkhaveri, Mujuretuli, Ojaleshi, Otskhanuri Sapere, Saperavi, Shavkapito, Tavkveri, and Usakhelouri. Many of these Georgian varieties were ignored during the Soviet era because of their low yields but are now being more widely planted and appreciated for quality potential and for their distinctiveness in a world awash with international varieties. However, one of the difficulties Georgia currently faces in exporting wines is that foreign consumers are unfamiliar with the names and flavours of these traditional Georgian grape varieties. The ancient and uniquely Georgian tradition of fermenting, storing, and ageing wines in clay qvevri buried underground has never been lost. Even though qvevri makers are a dying breed, qvevri wines have begun to attract international attention, particularly among proponents of natural wine.

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