Styles of port: Aged tawny

Port that has been left to age in wooden casks for six or more years begins to take on a tawny colour and a soft, silky character as the phenolics are polymerized (see ageing). Most of these tawnies are bottled with an indication of age on the label, although a new category of Tawny Reserve or Tawny Reserva may be applied to wines that have spent at least seven years in wood. The terms 10, 20, 30, or Over 40 years old seen on labels are, however, approximations as tawny ports are blended from a number of years’ production. Most aged tawnies are blended according to house style and must be tasted and approved by the IVDP as conforming to the character expected from the age claimed on the label. Aged tawnies are made from wines of the very highest quality: wines set aside in undeclared years that might have otherwise ended up as vintage port (see below). They mature in cask in the cool of the lodges at Gaia until the shipper considers that they are ready to blend and bottle. Labels on these wines must state that the wine has matured in wood and give the date of bottling, which is important since aged tawny port may deteriorate if it spends too long in bottle. Once the bottle has been opened, younger aged tawnies may be subject to quite rapid oxidation, losing their delicacy of fruit if left on ullage for more than a few days. (Very old tawnies and colheita ports are usually more robust.) Port shippers themselves often drink a good aged tawny, chilled in summer, in preference to any other. The delicate, nutty character of a well-aged tawny suits the climate and temperament of the Douro better than the hefty, spicy character of vintage port, which is better adapted to cooler climes.