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This won’t be popular with some readers, but I have harboured a guilty secret for a while. I have never been that mad about aubergines. They are a bit like olives; you cannot pretend to be a proper grown-up if you don’t enjoy these sophisticated tastes. I eat olives and enjoy them to a degree, but if somebody says they absolutely adore olives I look around and feel ever so slightly worried. As though perhaps I haven’t grown up completely. And the fact is that I used to be like that about aubergines.