The Brothers of Orfoz

An evening walk along the waterfront in the west-coast town of Bodrum is likely to be at first a charming experience and then a depressing one. Beneath the fifteenth-century Castle of Saint Peter, you stroll along a pebbly beach lined with candle-lit tables put out by the local eateries. The gentle waves are lapping just short of the table legs.

It’s idyllic until the waiters start beckoning and shouting: ‘Check out our menu. We got schnitzel, we got pizza, we got Greek salad, we got waffles, we got kebabs.’