General Ignorance of the Poor in Cooking

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By Alexis Soyer

Published 1854

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Ox cheeks may be bought at present, cut from the bone, and very fresh, at about twopence-halfpenny to threepence per pound, in London. It is the most gelatinous food which the ox produces, and contains a large amount of nourishment, as I have already mentioned to you. The only drawback there is to it is the length of time it requires to cook, and the general way in which it is done, being in many cases prejudicial to its use. Frequently on my visits to the abodes of the poor, while in London last winter, I have often seen this article of food completely spoiled. On one occasion, I asked an old lady how she cooked it. “Sure enough,” said she, “by fire.” “But, my dear woman,” I inquired, “how long do you cook it?” “Ah!” she replied, “sometimes as long as an hour, and boiling like the very deuce all the time, till the water will not stand it any longer.” “And pray,” I asked, “what do you do with the water?” “Faith, there is no water left, but only black muck at the bottom of the pot, which I throw away,” was her reply.