Step Four: Folding

First of all, how to fold: Flour the work surface, using somewhat more flour than you think is necessary. Excess flour will not be incorporated into the dough because it will all be brushed off. If there is a lack of flour on the work surface, the dough will stick to it as it is folded, with an accompanying ripping of the dough’s surface. This, needless to say, is not a desirable sight. Next, turn the dough out onto the work surface, so that the top of the dough is neatly turned over and spread onto the floured work surface. Now take one side, say, the left side of the dough, and lift up about one-third of the bulk and turn it vigorously onto the body of the dough. With spread fingers, use both hands to pat down the dough and degas it. Don’t attempt to drive out every bit of fermentation gas; just press enough to expel the major portion of the gases. Now take about one-third of the dough from the right side and fold it in toward the center, overlapping the first fold. Again press to degas. Be sure, before that second folding and prior to all folds, that any raw flour on the top surface of the dough is brushed away. Make every effort to avoid incorporating raw flour into the dough; otherwise, gray streaks will show in the baked loaf, and the seam of baked raw flour will give a bad visual as well as eating impression. After folding the right-hand third of the dough into the center, reach over to the far side of the dough, bring about one-third toward you, and fold this portion. Finish by taking the dough closest to you and folding that portion away from you and into the center. When this fourth side has been folded, turn the dough over on the work surface so the seams are underneath, bring your arms under the dough from the left and right sides, pick it up in a mass, and replace it in the dough container. It is not unusual or particularly difficult to fold a container of 50, 60, or even 70 pounds of dough; it can, however, be a bit tricky to transfer the dough back to the container when it gets much heavier than that; in this case, a second person is helpful, or you can simply use more containers with less dough in each.