Tips for Braiding

From a technical perspective, there are a number of points relative to braiding that must be abided. Although in the lessons that follow we will look at only a few of the hundreds of possible braiding patterns, the rules that apply to one pattern tend to apply to all. As with so many aspects of baking, an effort made to keep the small things accurate brings the highest results in the finished work. In the list that follows, what may appear to be a small detail will in fact have an impact on the end result.

• The dough used for braid work is generally on the stiff side. The strands made from softer doughs have a tendency to merge together. By using comparatively stiff doughs, there is a sovereign independence to each strand, and each strand rises distinct from its neighbor.
• Certain doughs used for braiding are fully yeasted, for example the challah and Berne Brot in Chapter 7. Other doughs, such as the Decorative Dough from Chapter 10, have a reduced percentage of yeast. And some braids are made from unyeasted dough. All three methods have appropriate application. For eating purposes, the braids made with a full yeast percentage are most suitable. The keeping quality of finished bread tends to increase as yeast percentage is reduced. Challah is an excellent dough for braiding, and was used for all the braids shown in the illustrations in this chapter.
• Fully yeasted doughs can be mixed up to 1 day before braiding. The mixed dough receives full gluten relaxation during the hours under refrigeration, which makes braiding easier. The long, slow fermentation improves keeping quality. And last, if the braids are intended for sale, by mixing a day before and retarding the dough in bulk, production time is saved the following day, since mixing and fermentation were completed the day before.
• The thought of braiding several strands of dough can be a bit daunting. A lot can be learned by practicing with Play-Doh, or even shoelaces, where the pressure of yeast is absent. In studying the braiding diagrams, it becomes clear that once a pattern is established, that pattern continues throughout the braiding process.
• If the dough is divided in a 36-part dough divider, slightly round each piece so that the pieces are the same shape when you begin rolling out the strands. If the dough is hand divided, strive to cut the dough into evenly sized rectangles, with any scrap placed on top of the body of the rectangle. Form the strand by folding the long edge of the rectangle over the scrap and tightly rolling the dough piece into a rope. If a dough molder is used, allow the dough to rest after going through the molder, then extend the relaxed strands to their finished length.

• There is no difference in technique between rolling out one strand of dough to make a roll and rolling out several dozen for a large display piece. Here is the method: Using one hand, lay your palm in the center of the dough. Your shoulder should be above the dough so that the strength of shoulder and back contribute to the rolling. Pressing down, roll the dough back and forth on an unfloured bench several times until you meet resistance in the dough. You should have a sort of dog-bone shape, with the center narrow and each end bulbous. Now, place both hands side by side at the center of the strand, with your index fingers touching each other. Continue to roll, but now the pressure (still mostly from the shoulders and back, which should remain above the work) will be both downward and outward. If the dough is sliding along the bench and not rolling, either there is a residue of flour on the bench, or, more likely, the downward and outer pressure of your hands is insufficient.

  Once your hands have reached the ends of the dough, look at the strand. In all likelihood, it will require more lengthening, so return both hands to the center, again with both index fingers touching, and repeat the rolling out. You may need to repeat these rollings several times, depending on the resistance of the dough to stretching, and on the required length of the strand. Often, there is asymmetry to the strand. In this case, don’t continue to return both hands to the center and roll outward, but instead place your hands on the areas that need work and carefully lengthen those areas, with the ultimate goal of rolling the strand to a symmetrical shape. If an area is encountered where the strand is too thin, in every case avoid any further lengthening in that area.

  During the entire rolling process, the palm should be mostly in contact with the dough. If the fingers are used, lumps and bumps will result in the shape of the strand. The smoothness of the palm helps ensure a smooth evenness to the rolled strand. An added bonus to rolling lots and lots of strands is the subtle massage the palm receives from the action. Bakers who make a lot of braids seem to have an elevated feeling of goodwill!

• Quite a bit of vigor is required to roll out the strands. Strong downward and outward pressure helps to roll the strand as quickly as possible. This in turn helps to prevent the dough from being overworked. Overworked strands usually become too dry, and often have interior gas bubbles that make for irregular braids.
• For symmetry in the finished work, it is very important that each strand be rolled out so that its shape and length is as similar as possible to all the other strands. Often, particularly when rolling out long strands (such as in a lattice, where the strands might be 4 feet in length or more), it is preferable to roll out the individual strands only partway. Once the last strand has been rolled, return to the first and roll again to the finished length. Keep in mind that as you are rolling, when you meet the dough’s resistance, you must let it rest—it will simply rip if you try to continue the rolling.
• Since the dough is on the stiff side, keeping rolled strands under plastic prevents dehydration. If the dough becomes so dry that it simply will not roll into shape, swiping the bench with a barely dampened towel will give some traction to the dough and permit elongation. Caution must be exercised here, though; if there is even the slightest amount of excess moisture, the surface of the strands will become pasty and stick together in the finished braid.
• Rolling the full-length strands in a light (almost invisible) coating of flour before assembly helps keep the individual strands separate, and so improves the definition of the finished braid. You should avoid even the smallest excess of dusting flour on the bench during rolling, however. Extra flour will cause the dough to slide aimlessly around the bench, refusing to roll out.
• After rolling out the strands and placing them in the correct position, put a weight of some kind onto the joined ends of the strands before beginning the braiding. This helps to prevent the strands from unraveling as you make the braid.
• Each braid requires a certain minimum number of strands in order to accomplish its pattern. In most cases, however, increasing above that minimum is possible. For example, the 5-strand braid in the illustration can be made with 6, 7, 8, or any number of strands. There is, of course, a practical limit to the number of strands that looks appropriate for each of the braids. The 3-strand braid in the illustration is an example of a pattern that cannot be made with more or fewer strands.
• One of the major defects of some braids, beyond the poor shaping of the individual strands, is excessive pulling during assembly. As the braid is being formed, only a light, gentle placement of the strands is necessary. If a strand is pulled beyond its natural ability to stretch, it will eventually pull back, distorting the finished loaf.
• Keep a little bit of space between the strands as they are laid into position. There must be room between them to accommodate the bread as it rises. If the initial braid is made too tightly, the pressure exerted by the rising of the dough and by the final expansion in the oven will result in a distorted loaf, often with unsightly bursting as the dough seeks room to expand.
• When finishing the braid, both ends must be well sealed. What may seem to be somewhat of an indelicate squeezing together of the ends of the strands is necessary to ensure that they don’t pop open during the bake, disfiguring the loaf. Also, if there are any strands that seem too long when finishing the loaf, simply cut them off and place them on the bottom of the loaf if it is for sale, or discard them if you are making a display piece. Look carefully at the finished loaf. Often the 2 ends will have a different aspect. With a few quick strokes, manipulate the ends, and the entire length of the loaf, so that there is an even symmetry throughout. Lines should be parallel from end to end. Some open spaces should be evident, suggesting the braid was made loosely enough to allow for expansion during the rise and for maintaining an even shape during the bake.
• Unless made with unyeasted doughs such as pâte morte, braids are egg washed before going into the oven, and never require steam. The coating of egg wash should be thin but thorough. Take care that all surfaces are evenly washed. Missed spots are pale and lusterless, surrounded by shine, and will draw the eye to them.
• Frequently, braided loaves are topped with poppy or sesame seeds. This can be done in one of two ways. First, as soon as the loaf is braided, apply a thin, even coat of egg wash and then invert the loaf into a tray of seeds, or sprinkle seeds over the surface. Alternatively, wait until the bread is almost ready to bake, then egg wash it and sprinkle seeds on top. In this latter method, do not attempt to invert the bread into the seeds; it will be too fragile for such treatment, since its rise is almost complete.
• A complete rise is not recommended before loading the oven. The strands on a braid that is 100 percent risen will almost certainly merge. A rise of about 85 percent will enable the strands to expand individually, and the baked loaves will be full, open, and attractive.
• When making larger pieces such as platters and cornucopias, a good method is to refrigerate the unbaked piece for an hour or more (overnight is acceptable, unless the yeast percentage is too high). This enables the dough to attain a relaxed equilibrium, minimizing the danger of distortion in the oven. Unless they are exposed to air currents while under refrigeration, the loaves can be left uncovered. This helps the individual strands remain distinct.
• Large display pieces must be cooled on wire racks. If they remain on the baking sheet, moisture will not be able to escape, and they will be subject to early mold. Since these pieces often have a shelf life of a year or more, it is sad to see mold creeping along the bottom when the cause of it is easily avoided (the voice of experience is speaking here).
• Egg wash is usually enough to give a vivid natural shine to the braids. Oftentimes, the baker may want to use varnish on display pieces to enhance the shine. A precaution: If the entire piece is enclosed by varnish, there is no way inner moisture can escape, and mold will result, so leave the bottom unvarnished.