Bring back pilchards, I say...

Appears in

By Mark Hix

Published 2006

  • About
Well, in fact, they are back, it’s just that it would seem that no one wants to buy them any more - although they will buy the posher version, sardines. Well I’ve got news for you, the pilchard is actually a grown-up sardine. In fact, a sardine reaches pilchardism when it’s over 11cm long. Supermarkets are also trying to rehabilitate pilchards by calling them ‘Cornish sardines’.

The European pilchard, Sardina pilchardus, is a migratory fish, like its cousin the herring, and there was a prolific pilchard fishery off the Cornish coast in the Middle Ages. By the nineteenth century, the fish had become the centre of a vital and profitable trade in the West Country. Most of the pilchards caught were salted, packed into barrels, and exported to Europe. Nothing from the curing process would be wasted and even the oil that drained from the barrels would be sold to the leather tanners for their lamps. The skimmings from the water in which the fish were washed was bought by soap boilers, and any damaged fish went for manure.