Craster Kippers

Appears in

By Mark Hix

Published 2006

  • About
Kippers are yet another old method of curing fish that has sort of stuck with us in a funny sort of way - as their smell does for hours. Perhaps that’s why they’re no longer in vogue, although I’m sure they’ll be reappearing in some form on British food pioneers’ menus.

Kippering is a method of preserving rather like the way salmon is smoked - split down the back, cured and smoked. In 1843, a John Woodger had the idea of doing this to herring in Seahouses in Northumberland, as previously herrings were cured as red herrings in hard blocks that more or less lasted forever and took days to reconstitute; or as bloaters which were like Arbroath smokies and didn’t have much shelf life. The kipper was a combination of the two, with a bloater’s eating qualities and the shelf life of red herring.