Day of the Dead Breakfast with Chef Carmen “Titita” Ramírez

My breakfast at El Bajío with Chef Carmen “Titita” Ramírez emphasized how cooking in Mexico—both at home and in restaurants—is a woman’s domain. Titita, the matriarchowner of this thirty-nine-year-old restaurant, is considered one of the world’s best Mexican chefs; Ferran Adrià called her “the Queen of the Mexican kitchen.” With the exception of a few “helpers,” the kitchen was all women, and that’s not uncommon. After dishes like pipianada, carnitas, and chilaquiles negros, we toured her colorful kitchen with its impressive collection of Day of the Dead artwork displayed.