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I’VE ALWAYS MAINTAINED THAT THE finest foods are fresh and local, but it’s true that you can’t make lowcountry food without real grits any more than you can make Southeast Asian cuisine without real fish sauce. I do believe, however, that if you can’t find any honest-to-goodness country ham then you can use some prosciutto and at least capture the style if not the very essence of the recipe that calls for it. Common sense and integrity are intertwined in the kitchen.
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