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Published 2022
When I lived in Paris, there was a bistro a block from my apartment that served the best pommes frites I’ve ever eaten. It was a neighborhood hangout, full of working-class men, gallery owners, students, and an occasional tourist. I remember it as always being open, though I often arrived too late for the roast chicken, the house specialty, which was always simply prepared with the finest poulet de Bresse. The chicken, like the steak, was served with fries.
