Although all kinds of meat are eaten in China, the favoured animal protein is pork. In Cantonese cooking especially, it rules the culinary realm, turning up in a hundred different guises. The dish it is intended for dictates the way pork is cut, rather than the cut of meat determining what dish is cooked, as is the case in the Western world. Whatever animal is eaten, the southern Chinese make good use of every part, from the kidneys and innards to the ribs and loin, combining them with carefully selected ingredients and cooking techniques in a manner that will maximize the flavour.