The Whole Pig

Suckling pig is sensational. It tastes sweeter and more delicate than mature pork, and in China it is reserved for such occasions as weddings or banquets. Though it is usually left to commercial establishments that specialize in roasting meat and poultry, as the French leave sausage making to the charcuterie, it is not hard to prepare at home if you have both a pan and an oven large enough to accommodate the whole pig. The best-tasting pigs are the smallest—around 10 pounds if you can find one. Most are closer to 20 pounds. The finished pig is cut up and served with pancakes and hoisin sauce, exactly like the first course of Peking Duck. The remaining scraps of meat are delicious stir-fried with vegetables or stir-fried with deep-fried tofu. Try this with a pig first, then with a kid, 10 to 20 pounds.