An Introduction

To most Chinese, even in these post-revolution days, food is more than food. It is ritual, symbolism. What is eaten, when, how often, in what season, in what order, are often dictated by the writings of Confucius, by that Ch’ing dynasty gastronomic philosopher Yuan Mei, by the religions of Buddhism and Taoism, and by mythological beliefs.

Eat noodles on your sixtieth birthday, for then you will live longer. Cut the white portion of chicken neatly and precisely or it will not be fit to eat. Be certain there are bowls of tangerines and oranges in your house so that you, and those to whom you offer them, will be assured of sweetness in life. Before the New Year offer food to your ancestors so that they will not be “hungry ghosts.” Be certain that a pregnant woman is given stalks of ripe grain. When a baby is born its first bath must contain fresh garlic and the leaves of the wong pei, a kumquatlike fruit. On the feast of the August Moon eat moon cakes filled with sweet lotus-seed paste so that in your next incarnation you will be beautiful.