At last. Us chocolate evangelists have been waiting with bated chocolate-breath for the opening of La Maison du Chocolat in London’s Piccadilly. And the wait’s been worth it. The shop is a hushed, subdued house of worship. Robert Linxe is the champion of the chocolate world and has led the fashion for chocolate in Paris for nearly 30 years. He once described to me the perfect method of mixing a ganache (chocolate and cream) ‘you must do absolutely no more then gently move it around, like a mayonnaise...’ His ganaches are so light and sublime - and the chocolate is still allowed to ‘speak for itself’. Try Caracas - just plain and decidedly dark ... an emulsion of truly divine proportions or flavours such as basil and jasmine. They glow in the mouth!