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Bring back the twelfth cake

Appears in
At Christmas We Feast: Festive Food Through the Ages

By Annie Gray

Published 2021

  • About

The Queen’s Twelfth Cake prepared by her confectioner, Mr. Mawditt, for the Twelfth Night dinner. Printed in Illustrated London News, 13 January 1849/Alamy Stock Photo.

Christmas cake is a conundrum. As fabulous as it is, it can be hard to place. When, exactly, is the appropriate time to eat it? On Christmas Day, when we’re already replete? Boxing Day, as a lift from leftovers? When we have guests? But then which ones do we like enough to spare a piece, and does it look rude if it has already been cut? Or should we simply eat it all Christmas, whenever needed, and preferably with cheese? (This last is a northern habit, and excellent beyond all measure.)

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