Are all dried pastas the same?

The quality of dried pasta depends especially on the flour from which it’s made. Good Italian pasta is made from hard durum wheat, also called semolina, because it is very tough and will not turn starchy or gluey when cooked—unless, of course, you overcook it! It keeps its texture even when softened, what the Italian call al dente or “to the tooth.” This chewiness is highly prized. Look for the words “100 percent hard durum wheat” or “semolina” when you buy dried pasta. And if you ever see imported Italian artisanal pasta (labelled artigianale in Italian) for sale, buy it. Because of the old machinery used to extrude and shape the pasta (bronze instead of teflon or stainless steel), the lower temperature at which it’s dried, and the superior flour used, this pasta has a much rougher surface texture and higher residual humidity. This makes it cook more evenly, and absorb and hold the sauce better—it is a revelation. Italian artisanal brands may be pricey for pasta, but even at boutique prices, they’re cheap for dinner— and worth every cent.