It is really worth buying a bottle or two of Champagne or one of the many sparkling wines now on the market. Just the sight of the bubbles and the pale golden colour cheers up jaded spirits. You can drink it at any time - before lunch, with the Christmas pudding, at the end of the meal, when everyone feels rather full, or after the children have been put to bed and you are in need of a pick-me-up. It does not matter when you drink it, but to have it is to add a final touch to the celebrations, and when you work out the cost of a sparkling white wine, you will find it is no more expensive than pouring gin and tonic.