The Early Nineteenth Century

Politics Drove the Direction of cooks and cookbooks in the first part of the nineteenth century, with the French and American revolutions creating more egalitarian views of cooking. Taste vacillated between the simpler fare considered seemly in this new era and the more luxurious dining preferences of the rich and famous—represented by the fashionable cooking of the first celebrity chef, Marie Antonin Carême. In turn, the overthrow of Napoleon and restoration of the French monarchy in 1815 not only encouraged the rise of nationalism throughout Europe but helped create an environment in which art, literature, and gastronomy could thrive. Books devoted to regional and national cuisines made their appearance, offering hints of the varied fare that would proliferate in the modern cookbooks to come. In addition, cookbooks by the first restaurateurs emerged early in the century, and gourmet guides became popular. Only the British remained true to tradition, relishing their roast beef and the comforts of a familiar, well-run household. By the nineteenth century, these comforts had become embodied in a very English institution, the gentlemen’s club, where congenial companions met to enjoy conversation over the very best of food and wines.