The Tradition of the Savoury Pie

There are a world of other bak’d Meats & Pies, but for as much as whosoever can do these, may do all the rest, because herein is contained all the art of seasonings, I will trouble you with no further repetitions.

Gervase Markham

When Gervase Markham wrote this in 1615, it was inconceivable that the table at any feast, or any grand occasion, should be without its pies and pasties.

The meat pie attained its full perfection only in England and held its pride of place from the Middle Ages until the nineteenth century. Originally, no doubt, it was evolved as a splendidly convenient way of eating meat in gravy before the fork was in general use: a cold pie where the stock was jellied was, of course, particularly easy to eat with the fingers. Most, if not all, early pies were ‘raised’: recipes speak of ‘raising’ the ‘coffin’, i.e. the bottom and sides of the pie, and there is never any mention of the use of a pottery dish: usually the only stipulation about the crust is that it should be of ‘your finest paste’.