Raised Pies and Pies Intended to be Eaten Cold

Louis Eustache Ude, a Frenchman who worked for thirty years in England, was cook to the Earl of Sefton, for a time to the Duke of Wellington (whom he left because the Duke was unable to appreciate good food) and for many years steward of the United Services Club. He produced valuable advice on what the English upper classes in the early nineteenth century expected to be given at dinners and banquets. In describing how to arrange a menu for a large formal dinner, he said: ‘I have added 2 cold pies, which are likewise served at a large dinner. I like them to be sent to table with the 1st course; and to remain there between the 2 courses. By this means the epicure and dainty eater will always have something before them . . . they may be of game or poultry.’