Veal Kidneys

For anyone who likes them, veal kidneys have a lot of flavor. But that same robust flavor turns off anyone who doesn’t like them. One of the interesting things about kidneys is that, unlike most meats, cooking them lightens their flavor, rather than concentrates it. You should never make a jus from kidneys or deglaze the sauté pan to make a sauce. However, kidneys are delicious when paired with a mustard sauce that carries a sweet-and-sour accent.