Asparagus

Appears in
Cooking

By James Peterson

Published 2007

  • About
It is a sad fact that asparagus has been banalized in this country into a ubiquitous, relatively tasteless green. In Europe, asparagus season is limited to spring, and the thick, meaty spears are sold for the price of good steak in the best restaurants. Until recently, Europeans preferred white asparagus spears, which are the same as green, except that sand is banked over the shoots to protect them from the sun and stop the development of chlorophyll. The difference in flavor between white and green is hard to detect, and most of the white asparagus spears sold in the United States are woody and expensive and not worth the bother. Buy asparagus in spring, when it is in season, and ideally from a local grower. Look for the thickest spears you can find, so that you get a meaty, satisfying flavor.