Fried Potatoes

There may be no more universally revered food than the French fry, but sadly French fries are rarely made at home. This is easy to understand, given both the large amount of hot oil and the general mess.

French-fry connoisseurs are divided into two camps: thick and thin. Choosing sides is important since different techniques apply to each. The very thinnest French fries, matchstick potatoes, are cooked in one step: a quick plunge in almost-boiling oil. Slightly thicker French fries (still classified as thin) and thick French fries must be cooked in two separate steps: The first step is slow-frying in hot, but not fiery hot, oil for a relatively long time—3 minutes or so—to cook the potatoes through. The second step, done just before serving, requires submerging the precooked fries in the very hottest oil to reheat them and create the delicate, crusty crust. Fortunately, the first step can be done hours in advance.