Classic and Improvised Mayonnaises

Classic French cookbooks list about two dozen mayonnaises, from tartar to gribiche sauce. In these classic recipes, a relatively small amount of flavoring, such as an herb or capers, is added. Contemporary versions call for larger amounts because modern palates have grown used to more assertive sauces. Also, more intense flavoring has the effect of making a mayonnaise less rich and more salsa like. These mayonnaises can also be used to make salads out of diced cold meat, seafood, or vegetables. Each of the following mayonnaises makes about 1½ cups.