Vegetables a Colorful Crop

Until I lived in France, I did not realize the importance of vegetables in family meals. Two or three colorful sides routinely appear with the main meats, while the appetizer may be a vegetable gratin in winter or a simple vegetable salad come summertime. French country cooks are also masters of transforming garden produce into complete meals. Cabbage may be stuffed with sausage, chestnuts, onions, carrots, and bread crumbs, making a few ingredients serve a crowd. In the north, cooks braise Belgian endives and then wrap them in ham and bake them in a rich cream sauce. In the south, Ratatouille features half a dozen Mediterranean vegetables baked together with wild herbs and sweet local garlic, substantial enough to be a main dish on a hot July day.