A piece of fruit or a fruit compote was the traditional daily sweet on most Italian Jewish tables. Yet, the largest written recipe section in every Italian Jewish cookbook is for desserts—often double or triple the size of the other chapters. Desserts are divided into pareve (those that can be served at dairy- or meat-based meals) and those suitable for dairy meals. There are special holiday pastries, served only on that day or at that time of year, and finally there’s a whole section dedicated to the desserts and pastries of Passover, when no leavening agents are allowed. Baking according to kosher laws is a complex matter.