Les Viandes: Meats

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By Mireille Johnston

Published 1990

  • About
Some Northerners find Nice’s cooking to have “not enough meat and too many bones,” but the frugality of this cuisine is balanced by the imagination with which it deals with inexpensive cuts of meat. Since meat was never plentiful in the South, every part of the animal is treated with respect.

Choose your meat carefully: beef should be bright red, lamb dark pink. Trim it well and use seasonings with care. The heady boeuf à la niçoise, the vigorous gardiane, the pungent poulet en saupiquet rely on inexpensive materials —but God is in the details.