Joyce Goldstein

Since the time Square One opened, our cuisine came to show a deeper understanding of the traditional cuisines. Rather than being simplified for Americans, we tried to give them greater authenticity. Also, as our skills and our sense of organization improved, we were able to take on a little bit more and have the plates be a little more complex. But I think the key really is that rather than giving customers a short-hand version of the Mediterranean, we gave them the long-hand—we really tried to give it to them as if they were there. We eliminated a lot of international things and things from other cultures as people wanted to know what kind of food we prepared. So with the word “international” terrifying and bewildering them, and not wanting to call it “California cuisine,” whatever the hell that is, we became more and more Mediterranean and more and more true to the source. That’s my story… Tonight’s our last night… (July 13, 1996)