Six years ago, when the column on which this book is based began, meat was — for the majority of non-vegetarian cooks — just another ingredient The crisis provoked by BSE, and an increasingly vocal and negative medical lobby, have made us all look at meat in terms that have nothing to do with whether or not, cooked in an appropriate way, it may be delicious. We have been made to think about the potential negative aspects of eating meat, for example its role in a contemporary Western diet which increasingly eschews saturated fat, and have been asked to consider its consumption in a moral context.