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Anarchy in art

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Dark Rye and Honey Cake: Festival baking from the heart of the Low Countries

By Regula Ysewijn

Published 2023

  • About

Baking, giving and devouring these cakes, sweets and gingerbread koek can be seen as a form of protest, a way to consume the forbidden feast, like eating the body of Christ at Communion makes you part of a community. Painting these feasts during this time could have been dangerous to those who wielded the brush and paint. Protestants never managed to eradicate the feast of Saint Nicholas and it became an emblem of the Counter-Reformation.

OSIAS BEERT (c.1580–1623): Dishes with Oysters, Fruit, and Wine, c.1620/1625, National Gallery of Art, USA. Clockwise from top left: à la facon de Venise wine glassware; a bowl of dried fruit and nuts with a beschuit on top; chestnuts; quince paste; a bowl of red and white letter biscuits mixed with other sweet bakes (possibly Portuguese spice biscuits); oysters and, in the centre, a bowl of mixed comfits and sweets.

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