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The Risotto Rules
Appears in
By David Eyre
Published 2009
- Choose the superfino classified rice, i.e. with large, fat grains. Arborio is the most popular. It has a thin outer layer which releases its starch easily but leaves the grains nutty and separate. Carnaroli is prized for the perfect texture it provides. Vialone nano is a semifino variety and best for the Venetian loose style – terrific for Seafood Risotto and risotto made with young vegetables. In all cases allow about 50–60g/2–2¼oz rice per person as a starter and 75g/3oz as a main course.
- You will need a heavy, thick-bottomed pan for cooking the risotto in. Stainless steel and enamelled cast iron are the best. Aluminium is not suitable, as the risotto will catch and cook unevenly.
- The stock must be light and well strained, so its flavour will not overpower the base ingredients. Make a chicken stock by putting some wings or drumsticks in a large saucepan with a leek, a carrot, an onion, a stick of celery, some bay leaves and some peppercorns. Cover with cold water and bring to a simmer – don’t let it boil, even for a minute, or it will become cloudy with emulsified fat. Simmer for 45 minutes, then strain and return to the stove over a low heat – the stock must be hot when it is added to the risotto base. Substitute about 50g/2oz broken dried porcini mushrooms (known as bricciollini, and much cheaper than the sliced ones) for the chicken if making a vegetarian mushroom risotto. If making a seafood risotto, simply steam open the shellfish with a splash of white wine in a covered pan to release their juices, then dilute these with water to use as the cooking liquid.
- Start the risotto by frying the finely chopped vegetables in butter. Salt added at this stage will help the vegetables to release moisture and become transparent without browning. Follow with the rice and continue cooking for a few minutes until it is toasted or opaque and beginning to stick to the pan, but don’t let anything brown.
- I often add some wine at this stage, let it reduce and then follow with the stock. Add the stock to the rice mixture in stages, adding only enough to be absorbed within a few minutes. Keep stirring the mixture gently and repeat the applications of stock perhaps up to 6 times. Cooking times will vary: you must judge it by taste, but 20 minutes is my estimate. The objective is for the rice to be tender and luscious but never too soft in the centre.
- The last stage is performed off the heat, when the risotto is judged to be nearly done, and is known as il mantecatura: melt a large knob of butter on the surface of the cooked risotto, with the lid on, and then beat in a good tablespoon of Parmesan. Don’t use any cheese with seafood risotto – it is regarded, quite correctly, as very, very wrong.