The terroir

The concept of terroir in chocolate-making was virtually unknown until the early 1990s. It is now taken as a given among connoisseurs. Chocolate comes from the cocoa pod, the fruit of the cocoa tree. The beans are, of course, agricultural crops, and like all agricultural crops they are influenced by the combination of factors that together make up what we call terroir: origin, choice of varieties, environment, and expertise. There are three main varieties of cocoa trees—Criollo, Forastero, and Trinitario—and each produces cocoa with different characteristics. Forastero, for example, is considered more bitter and astringent, while Criollo is regarded as mellower, with notes of berries, nuts, and honey. These subtle differences underpin the construction of the taste of chocolate. In addition to the variety of the tree, the environment is also an important factor. The amount of sunlight that reaches the trees influences the polyphenol content, and rain plays a role in fermentation. And, of course, the work of the farmers can radically modify the aromas of the product. When the pods are cleaved open, and during the processes of fermentation and drying, the slightest bit of inattention might well produce an unwanted aroma, such as a taste of mold or smoke, or excess acidity.